The Story Behind Thanksgiving's Most Polarizing Dish (2024)

Cranberry sauce is a Thanksgiving necessity, even when it comes straight out of the can.

By

Nina Friend

The Story Behind Thanksgiving's Most Polarizing Dish (1)

Nina Friend is a New York-based writer who covers food, drink, travel, lifestyle, and sports. Nina’s work has appeared in Vogue, Air Mail, Bon Appétit, Cherry Bombe, Food & Wine, The BBC, and NBC Sports, among others.

Updated on November 9, 2023

The Story Behind Thanksgiving's Most Polarizing Dish (2)

What's red and jiggly with ridges all over? Canned cranberry sauce, otherwise known as a highly polarizing American holiday tradition that divides Thanksgiving into two camps: Team Homemade and Team Canned. Collectively, Americans consume five million gallons of cranberry sauce during the holidays each year. This side dish has become essential to Thanksgiving menus, whether you opt to buy it (as 76% of Americans do) or make it yourself.

It's hard to pinpoint exactly who invented the concept of cranberry sauce. Native Americans have been growing and eating the fruit, which is indigenous to North America, for centuries. An account from the American colonies in 1672 mentions the ways that both Native Americans and European settlers used cranberries, "boyling them with sugar for a sauce to eat with their meat." And one of cranberry's earliest documented appearances with turkey can be found in the 1796 cookbook American Cookery, where author Amelia Simmons suggests pairing roast turkey with cranberry sauce and boiled onions.

Canned cranberry sauce, on the other hand, has a clear point of origin: It was invented by a lawyer-turned-cranberry-grower named Marcus Urann in the early 20th century. Back then, cranberries were considered a seasonal fruit, available only between September and November. Urann's initial goal was to salvage damaged cranberries by puréeing the ones that were less-than-perfect, canning them, and selling the product year-round. With this innovation, Urann forever changed the cranberry life cycle — and the Thanksgiving table.

Urann started selling his canned cranberry sauce in 1912 under the name Ocean Spray Preserving Company. In 1930, he joined forces with two competitors, independent cranberry growers John Makepeace and Elizabeth Lee, to form a cranberry cooperative. The co-op began offering canned cranberry sauce nationwide in 1941. Over the years, the co-op rebranded, going from Cranberry Canners Inc. to the National Cranberry Association and ending up as Ocean Spray in 1957. Ocean Spray has advertised its cranberry sauce with catchy slogans, such as one from 1958 that said, "It's the natural mate for every meat."

Each year, Ocean Spray produces 70 million cans of cranberry sauce, using about 200 cranberries in each can. To this day, Ocean Spray's Jellied Cranberry Sauce remains its most popular product — far outselling fresh cranberries. Sorry, team homemade! But there is a middle ground, with these tips to upgrade canned cranberry sauce.

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The Story Behind Thanksgiving's Most Polarizing Dish (2024)

FAQs

Why do we eat cranberry sauce with turkey? ›

Turkey is often dry, salty, and bland, which makes it the perfect partner for something sweet and moist. Cranberries are not overly sweet. Their tartness pairs well with the more bland-tasting turkey. Our palates would be bored by singular tastes.

What is the meaning of cranberry sauce? ›

Cranberry sauce or cranberry jam is a sauce or relish made out of cranberries, commonly served as a condiment or a side dish with Thanksgiving dinner in North America and Christmas dinner in the United Kingdom and Canada.

What is the history of cranberry sauce on Thanksgiving? ›

Urann started selling his canned cranberry sauce in 1912 under the name Ocean Spray Preserving Company. In 1930, he joined forces with two competitors, independent cranberry growers John Makepeace and Elizabeth Lee, to form a cranberry cooperative. The co-op began offering canned cranberry sauce nationwide in 1941.

How did cranberries become part of Thanksgiving? ›

Actually, cranberries graced the table of the Pilgrims' first Thanksgiving. Cranberries are one of the few fruits (blueberries and Concord grapes are among the others) that are native to North America.

Why are cranberries a symbol of Thanksgiving? ›

Seasonal availability. One of the reasons cranberries have become synonymous with Thanksgiving is their seasonal availability. Harvested in the fall, cranberries are at their peak during the holidays time.

What do people put cranberry sauce on Thanksgiving? ›

Cranberry sauce — along with turkey, sweet potatoes, and pie of course — is a must on every Thanksgiving table. Sweet and tangy with a brilliant jewel tone, it's the perfect complement to the relatively mild-flavored turkey and turkey sandwiches.

What is the red stuff at Thanksgiving? ›

Glittery, ruby red cranberry sauce is an essential part of any Thanksgiving meal. Not only does its color shine among the browns and beiges of side dishes like stuffing and mashed potatoes, but its sweet-tart flavor offsets the richness of roasted turkey, macaroni and cheese, and buttery yams.

What does cranberry symbolize? ›

5. Cultural Symbolism: Across cultures, Cranberry Red takes on diverse meanings. In Eastern traditions, it symbolizes good fortune and joy, while in Western cultures, it may evoke associations with passion and vitality. This cultural interplay adds a fascinating dimension to the color's significance.

Why is cranberry sauce served at Christmas? ›

Why Do We Serve Cranberry Sauce at Christmas? Following in the footsteps of America, we traditionally add cranberry sauce to our plates at Christmas to add a sweet and tangy taste to our turkey.

Why was cranberry sauce likely not served at the first Thanksgiving? ›

The Pilgrims might have been familiar with cranberries by the first Thanksgiving, but they wouldn't have made sauces and relishes with the tart orbs. That's because the sacks of sugar that traveled across the Atlantic on the Mayflower were nearly or fully depleted by November 1621.

Why is the label on cranberry sauce upside down? ›

Ocean Spray says this is to get the cranberry sauce out in one intact piece. “The rounded part of the can that looks like the bottom has an air bubble in it,” Ocean Spray's representative explains. The bubble is there so you can “break the seal the sauce makes with the can.”

Why do Americans eat cranberry sauce on Thanksgiving? ›

According to Wick, the tart fruit became popularly used to create cranberry sauce for turkey and other types of meat in the late 17th century. Within a hundred more years, cranberry sauce became a staple dish in the U.S., with its popularity taking off even more throughout the 19th century.

What did pilgrims call cranberry? ›

The Pilgrims gave this fruit the name "crane berry" because its pink blossom reminded them of the head of a crane, a large wading bird. Over the years its name has been shortened to cranberry.

Did the Pilgrims use cranberries as medicine? ›

Pilgrims and other early settlers ate the berries to fight off scurvy, unaware that it was the vitamin C inside that made the berries good medicine. "They thought that sour things would take salt out of their body," says Wall, "and they thought salt was causing scurvy.

What does eating cranberry sauce do? ›

Packed with antioxidants

The anthocyanins found in cranberries may have anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory effects. They may also: Protect against liver disease. Lower blood pressure.

Do turkeys eat cranberries? ›

In winter, turkeys forage on fruits that persist above the snow such as hophornbeam, burdock ash seeds, red cedar berries, grapes, highbush cranberries, beech and hemlock buds, and waste grains from spread manure and corn silage.

Did the Pilgrims eat cranberry sauce? ›

If cranberries were eaten, it was probably as a dish called pemmican–crushed cranberries and dried meat (yum!) Sugar was not widely available at the time so cranberry sauce, as we know it, was most likely not a part of the feast.

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